Forza Fenestrelle - Amazing!

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Buon Giorno!

(Figured I’d try the language of the country, and we’ll see how it goes!) Woke to a very changing day! When I first looked outside, there were no clouds. Next time – half an hour later, very cloudy! However, it wasn’t raining, which was the main thing! We breakfasted at 8 – downstairs in what looks to be the cellar. Breads, cakes, home-made jams, cereals, juice. Then out the door a few minutes before 9, to make it down the road a couple of miles to Fenestrelle, the fort.

Fenestrelle is an amazing sight. It is the largest fortification in Europe, and the second largest in all the world, right behind the Great Wall of China! R and I have traveled extensively in Italy and France, and never even HEARD of it until earlier this year, when it was featured in Smithsonian magazine! For those of you Olympics-watchers, it was designated as the “official symbol” for the province of Torino right before the 2006 Winter Olympics. It was built in the 1700’s, and took 122 years to complete – and it stretches a-l-o-n-g the mountain top dividing the Piedmont from France. If you Google Fort Fenestrelle you can find some information and pictures. Unfortunately, nothing that will really do it justice, because it is truly an amazing accomplishment!

So…Kent Benson, in whose B&B we’re staying, happens to be the English-speaking guide to Fenestrelle. In other words, he’s got a set of keys! Because the Fort was abandoned sometime after WWII, and just left to itself, at this point it isn’t possible to open it up completely for tourists without a guide. And, they do two tours a day – both at 9 a.m. One of the tours (the one Kent does) is 7 ½ HOURS long, and goes from the bottom all the way to the top!! The second tour is “only” 4 hours, and goes about half-way up.

I would LOVE to be able to tell you that we made it all the way to the top – it’s something like 4,000 feet basically straight UP -- and it’s STAIRS; the equivalent of much higher than the Empire State Building … but we didn’t. Instead, we went with Kent and his Italian tour to the half-way point, where we joined the shorter tour for the way down. All in all, a TRULY exhausting experience – and, at home, we walk 3+ miles a day, including a HILL! However, our hill was NOTHING compared to these STAIRS. UGH! But to look both up ahead and behind, and see nothing but STAIRS is truly daunting!! I’m afraid these legs just aren’t up to the task! Kate & Bob – you should take a look; it’s make a GREAT day hike for you!! Fortunately, Kent had lent us hiking sticks, which helped a bit – but between the uneven steps inside the tunnels, and the rough, overgrown paths used for mules to bring up cannons, power and cannon balls, it was quite an experience! My knee caps still hurt, and up until today, I don’t think I’ve ever felt them before!
Got down around 1 p.m. and ate our ham and cheese sandwiches (on terrific bread!) in the little restaurant at the bottom. Then, pausing only long enough to take in yet another Magnum Classic, we beat it back to the B&B – right into the shower for R, then naps all around.

So … slept quite soundly until the church bells from the church ACROSS the street started sounding (there they go again!) Literally, it’s 20 feet away, and we were able to hear the entire mass – and, as R says, that’s no Mormon Tabernacle Choir! People dispersing now; lots of conversations going on – all very loud and noisy; this is a very human place!

Tonight, we understand there is some kind of re-enactment to do with the Fort. Don’t know exactly what to expect, but am sure it will be fun or at least memorable! Also need to check downstairs with Michelle to get a dinner recommendation!

So – have included pictures of Fenestrelle. I hope that you will be able to get some idea of the scope of the place – Think Wall of China with forts at either end, spread across a stretch at the TOP of the Alps!

Will post this now, and then include dinner either separately (if it’s particularly memorable) or tomorrow, if it’s not!
Take care; lots of love!
m

Annecy, France - what a view!

Friday, September 11, 2009

Hello! Or Bonjour! Or buon giorno – depending on the country you’re in!
Sorry about not posting last night, but we got in a bit late from dinner, and to be honest, we both crashed and burned! R says he had a pretty restless night, but if he did, I certainly didn’t notice it! Slept like a LOG, although R said I was snoring…he can bring no proof, however, so I have my doubts!

So…when we last met, we were overnighting in Lyon. Excellent dinner, slept well and out of the hotel after breakfast around 9:30 a.m. Emily, our GPS said that we would be at our next place – Chambons, near Fenestrelle – by 11:30, so figured we had no time constraints. Also got an email from our B&B hosts, saying that someone “should” be home after 5:30 p.m. So…headed to Annecy, one of our absolutely favorite French small cities! (Do we say that a lot?) After an absolutely stunning drive through the back roads, popped out close to town center of Annecy. Found parking easily, actually, in the underground garage. Did a lovely walked down one of the canals and through the park, before settling in for lunch at one of the canal-side restaurants. We weren’t terribly hungry after breakfast, but figured that at some time we had to get on a regular schedule. Ate outside, and R had a tomato salad with onions and olives in a mustard vinaigrette, and I had the Salade Nicoise sans anchois (without anchovies). Both were yummy!

Walked a bit more – found an ATM to stock up “just in case” and then headed back out of town, now heading toward Fenestrelle, where the plan is to see the fort and to spend the next two nights.

We passed from France into Italy somewhere in the Frejus tunnel (one-way tariff was 32 Euros!) and when we again surfaced, there we were, in the Alps! The day had clouded over a bit, although some blue sky in the area, and we made our way up the mountains into Sestriere, site of the skiing and ski jumping for the 2006 Olympics! Unfortunately, Sestriere looks like many ski resorts – pretty naked without snow! From there we wound around to Fenestrelle, and then into the tiny little village of Chambons, where the B&B is located. Arrived just after 5:30 p.m. but no one home! Decided to wait until 6:30 and if no one was there by then, we’d leave a note and head out somewhere else for the night. Not a bad wait, though, as I was able to practically finish “My Life in France.”

Kent, Michelle & their 9 year old son George arrived about 6:15 p.m. Visited for a few minutes, then up to our room (#2 on the first floor, with balcony!) Changed for dinner, and headed to the recommended pizzeria place in town – only to be told to come back in an hour, as they were full! (And while they may have been reserved, they were far from actually full at that moment! Oh well!) Back to the B&B for another recommendation, and decided on La Placette in Usseux, a few km down the road. Got there about 8 p.m. and were the first (and only!) folks there! Very odd! For dinner, we both had the antipasti assortment, followed by pasta. The antipasti (sorry, no pictures!) included three kinds of sausage, prosciutto and prosciutto crudo; large slices of “fresh” cheese with olive oil; still warm roasted red and yellow peppers, and a marinated zucchini – everything was WONDERFUL! My pasta was gnocchi with a lovely cheese sauce. R had angiolotti (which he calls ravioli) stuffed with beef in a butter sauce. Everything was GREAT! Finished it off with poached pears covered with cocoa and drizzled with amaretto – all washed down by a great bottle of Barbera d’Alba. Great way to end the day!

When we left the restaurant (which was now almost 10, and we were STILL the only folks there!) it was raining gently! And of course our jackets and umbrellas were safely tucked away in our suitcases! Oh well!

Back to the B&B and crashed into bed…until 7 this morning, when we had to get up to begin our adventure at the fort…so…more later; will get this one off first!

Much love,
m

A L-O-N-G driving day!

Bonjour!

Up this morning, and out of the Inn by 9 a.m. We both slept very well, all things considered! Today was basically a long slog (albeit through beautiful countryside!) from Strasbourg to Lyon. Took almost 6 hours, although we didn't push it, and stopped occasionally along the way -- AND, my FIRST (but hopefully not my last!) Magnum Classic ice cream bar!! YUMMY! Great breakfast!! We ate at rest stops along the Peage (toll way) -- sandwiches, ice cream, etc. -- nothing special, and arrived in Lyon (where the River Saone joins the Rhone) about 3 p.m. Em(ily) our Nuvu 770 GPS guided us flawlessly to Place Bellcoeur, which is right in the middle of town. Of course our hotel, La Residence, is located on a pedestrian street ... so we parked in the closest underground parking lot, and schlepped our luggage across the Place and down the street to the hotel; just a couple of minutes.

Checked in; room 302. Very nice, but very unusual! It's a LONG room. You walk into a corridor, toilet room immediately across, bathroom (with a KILLER jacuzzi tub!) on the right. In the corridor, there are two bunk beds built in against the wall! Very cool! Then at the end of the corridor is our room, with lovely big windows looking out into a very quiet interior courtyard. We like it very much!

R worked on email for a bit, then we both took naps. Up and out around 7 for dinner! (Yes...food...again!)

Walked down the street and across the Saone on the pedestrian bridge. Just a short hop away was the funicular which takes you UP the hill to Fourviere. We'd been there a couple of years ago to see the Basilica; a beautiful view, and a great restaurant as well! So, back to the Restaurant Fourviere; sat on the patio. (And of course immediately regretted leaving sweaters back at the hotel, as the wind was freshening!)

Ordered another set menu. We both had the Salade Fraicheur -- wonderfully, perfectly dressed greens, with luscious fragments of fresh grapefruit, avocado, and crab meat on top. R followed that with the daurade (fish) layered on a incredible coulis of squash and egg plant - it was GREAT! I had volaille (sp?)(chicken) in a wonderful cream and tarragon sauce, with potatoes and a baked tomato -- WOW!

Included in the meal was also a plate of cheeses -- all good, followed by dessert! (We are TRULY going to waddle home!) R had the tarte of the season composed of red fruits -- strawberries, raspberries and chantilly cream. I had the tarte tatin (apple tart) with home-made French vanilla ice cream. Everything wonderful!!

By this time it was quite dark, and we needed to make the last funicular at 10 p.m. or face the prospect of walking down that hill...made it, and arrived safely back at the hotel.

Now just catching up on things. We leave in the morning for Fenestrelle -- the Italian fortress in the Alps! Very excited!

More later!!
Much love,
m

Dinner - Exceptional!

Morning!

Robert figured out whatever was keeping us from sending photos, so several are attached from yesterday in Strasbourg ... so, on to dinner!

WOW! Just incredible! As I mentioned yesterday, I've been reading Julia Child's "My Life in France" -- and was feeling very brave...so! On to the menu! Lovely dining room; nice and comfortable and quiet.

We started with aperitifs of coupe de Champagne -- lovely! Then came their little "amuse bouches" -- something to get you interested in eating. In this case, there were several things -- not sure what exactly -- a small round of bread with a slice of sausage topped by a VERY tiny hard-boiled egg -- a sliver of bread with a wonderful tarragon sauce for dipping, and finally, a tiny glass of frothy, thin pea soup with basil -- YUMMY!

Then came the starters -- a green salad simply dressed with a citrus vinaigrette for R, and Cassoulet avec l'escargot avec noisettes for me (snails in cassoulet with hazel nuts) -- AMAZING! Main course for Robert was St. Georges (fish: John Dory) perfectly cooked with veggies and a rice and barley side. I had poussin with frites -- small glazed chicken with french fries. Desserts were incredible -- R had feuillettes (thin sheets of pastry dough) with vanilla ice cream, red fruits (currents, strawberries and raspberries) along with a dollop of basil ice cream. Mine included two meringues with raspberry ice cream, whipped cream and strawberries -- Oh my!! Everything was washed down with a lovely bottle of Sancerre.

At any rate, we then waddled back to he hotel and collapsed into bed! Any wonder I'm not hungry upon waking??

Take care!
More later!
m

Photos from Sep 9

We're on our way!

And they’re off and traveling!! Am blogging after a truly incredible, perfect, French sort of day in La Wantzenau, just outside of Strasbourg, France. But first …

Left home on Sunday morning for Southern California, hoping to avoid the Labor Day traffic – and we did! Stopped briefly at Art & Anne Vaughan’s house in Sierra Madre, and then landed on Jay & Tommy Stramat’s doorstep in Northridge around 5 p.m. SOOOOOO good to see them again, as we haven’t been together since March, when we were at Indian Wells for tennis, and they were able to come out for an afternoon! Jay made a TREMENDOUS dinner – Ina Garten’s Boeuf Bourgignon, which was TERRIFIC – and possibly Ina’s cupcakes as well, for dessert – rich, white coconut cupcakes with an AMAZING frosting!! Would it surprise anyone to here that one even evaporated during the night?? Somebody must have gotten hungry…

Monday, Labor Day, was very casual, but included some really good Thai food in the evening. VERY early to bed, as our plane left LAX at 6 a.m….Out the door a little before 3:30 a.m., half an hour to LAX. Left the car at a long-term lot and were shuttled to the terminal. Through security (not that many people awake at that hour!) and to the gate in probably less than 15 minutes!! Our plane was right on time, and we had a nice ride to Chicago. For once, we didn’t have to change terminals at O’Hare – just stroll a few gates down the corridor! Got hot dogs – Chicago style (that AWFUL day-glo green relish!) and lots of poppy seeds to stick between your teeth – but it’ll most likely be the last hot dog for a while! Plane to Frankfurt actually left the gate a few minutes early, and we were SO happy with our seating! Picked row 21, which is something like the 5th row in their premier economy section – but as it happens, the first 4 rows on that side of the plane are reserved for flight attendants to get rest – and there is something like 3 feet between row 20 and us!! YEA!! SO much leg room; SO comfortable! Good flight – actually even some good movies! I watched Angels and Demons probably 2 times total; (LOVE the views of Rome!); also saw The Proposal, (called “La Proposition” in French!) which was fine; predictable – and last but not least, The Ghosts of Girlfriends Past … let me only say that if you’re absolutely DESPERATE, I STILL probably wouldn’t pick that one!! Also, R got me “My Life in France” by Julia Child, and I’m working my way through that! Just LOVE it, and would recommend it highly to anyone who likes to read – the cooking passages are terrific!!

Again, landed a bit early – off the plane in record time, and thanks to carrying on everything we brought, we were through immigration and customs in record time! In fact, we were so early that Avis, our car rental company, wasn’t even open yet!! Had to wait about 10 minutes before we could get our car. It’s a BRAND NEW Fiat Punto – small but really comfortable – and when we drove it out of the airport, it had all of 299 km on it! Will let you know at the end how many it has…
Onto the autobahn, heading towards France. Did stop along the way at a rest area and had croissants with raspberry jam – excellent, even though we weren’t yet in France! In fact – KATY!! – the very FIRST thing I saw when we walked into the café were MAGNUM CLASSICS – but it was only 7:45 a.m. … now I’ll probably never see them again…

Arrived in La Wantzenau at Le Moulin (the Mill) about 9 a.m. – VERY early, but they did have a room ready for us!! – YEA!! We’re in room 7, second floor (Europe)/third floor (U.S.) which has a lovely two-sided view of the river with beautiful trees along it. We’ve been to Le Moulin several times in the past, and really love it here – talk about peaceful! Just the sound of the water rushing through the mill race, flower boxes everywhere, huge oak and weeping willow trees; WOW!
Got upstairs and I collapsed – R says he did too, but you’d never know it from my point of view! As I don’t sleep on airplanes, I was more than a little tired …
Oh! Question I’d like to ask: Does anyone else besides me feel that travel, since the TSA instituted their liquid restrictions, is all in a series of PLASTIC BAGS? We’ve got one for Robert to carry; we’ve got one for me to carry; we’ve got pills in one; we’ve got my Netipot in another – Talk about a BAG lady!! Whatever happened to the gentile days when one carried a small, train case which matched one’s luggage? Gone forever, I am sure…oh well!!

So…four hours later, awoke, showered, and we were out the door by about 2:30 p.m. Truly, an absolutely picture-perfect day! Mid-70’s, nice breeze – GREAT place to stay!

Headed toward Strasbourg, via Hoenheim, where we stopped for a quick bite – me a sandwich; R a salad. While we were driving, I said to Robert: “It’d be neat if we could find the end of one of the tram lines; that way we could take the tram into Strasbourg and not have to drive in!” And really, about 2 minutes later, there we were – driving across tram tracks – the Hoenheim Gare was the end of the B line into the city!! GREAT! So, dropped the car and caught the tram in – very smooth – took about 15 minutes; lovely day.

Strasbourg is a truly beautiful place. Robert fell in love with it on sight the first time we were here, and I don’t blame him! Lots of canals cut through the heart of the city – lined by old but beautifully kept up “black and white” houses (think English cottages; Shakespeare) – lots of huge exterior beams, then painted light, subtle pastel colors; beautiful! Our shopping included 1) ATM machine; 2) a new Michelin atlas of France for R – we didn’t want to drag the old one because of 1) the weight and bulk, and 2) R said it was all of 4 years old, so OBVIOUSLY out of date!! Then we wandered, through Petit France; more canals, small islands in the center. Stopped for a glass of dry white wine, then hit one of my very favorite Christmas shops … couldn’t resist … which means we’ll probably be shipping a box home full of ornaments, or we’ll have to check luggage!! Oh well!!
Made it back to the tram line, a couple stops to Homme de Fer (the center plaza in town) and finally the B tram back to Hoenheim. Lovely afternoon! Drove back through La Wantzenau to see where we wanted to go for dinner…No place really caught our eye, so we decided to come back to Le Moulin. This place is famous for its food, and their chef is one of a group of “Jeune Restauranteurs d’Europe” – young restauranteurs of Europe. Know it will be pricy, but the food will be outstanding – hopefully we’ll remember to take the camera! – and we won’t have far to stumble to get home tonight! Always a good idea on your first night in town!

So … will close now, as need to change for dinner … which means going from shorts and t-shirt to jeans and shirt…oh well, the fun of traveling light!!
Take care; more later!

Love,
m

PS - Crashing now -- and some problem pasting in the photos -- so will try again in the morning!

Once again, the Traveling Brucato's Hit the Road!

Hello!

Here we go ... again! (Wasn't that the title of a song??)

We leave on Sunday to drive to Northridge, CA to visit Tommy and Jay Stramat, who are most graciously putting us up before our departure from LAX very EARLY on Tuesday morning!

In order to use miles, we are going to and from France via Frankfurt ... don't even ask! Miles, like I said...Our plan is to head from the Frankfurt airport to the suburbs of Strasbourg, then head south through Lyon, up into the Alps in Italy to see Fenestrella, and then across the bottom of France, staying in Vence, Cassis, and Aigues Mortes in the Camargue. From there we travel a bit inland -- Millau and Albi -- before heading into the Pyrenees -- and hopefully, some wonderful painted caves near Tarascon-sur-Ariege! Almost a week in the mountains, and finally, popping out again at Bordeaux. From there, we turn the car and start driving east, with stops at Clermont-Ferrand, Beaune and Colmar, before heading back to Frankfurt and the airport.

Packing like always -- carry-on only -- but taking several books on Roman ruins and roads -- hoping to catch up with some in Provence that we've not seen before. As always, all plans are subject to change, but that is the general idea!

We will be posting as daily as possible -- not sure if every place has wifi or connectivity -- especially in the Pyrenees, where our accommodation seems from this distance to be a bit sparse! But VERY much looking forward to our trip, and hoping that you'll join us along the way! We always love comments and suggestions -- so hope to hear from you soon!

Much love,
m