Rabbit, Rabbit, Rabbit! (For me!) (And if you need a further explanation, please do not hesitate to inquire...as the Brucatos have long played silly games...)
So, it’s now May, and here we are in the Dordogne! Yesterday was a lovely day (as how could it not be when you’re in France, says R...) As it was Brenda and Chris’ last day, we asked them what they wanted to see/do. The decision was to see prehistoric caves in the morning, and then shop in Sarlat in the afternoon. So, we headed out early for the best caves still open to the public in the area; Font du Gaume and Combarelles, two caves situated about 1.5 km apart just outside of Les-Ezyies. We arrived about 10 minutes before opening time, without reservations. We are told that reservations are required and taken a month in advance in high season; however, of the 180 people they allow in each cave per day, they keep back 50 tickets for each cave to go on sale each morning without reservation. So, as we were about 10th in line, I was hopeful...until the bus with the school children pulled up...However!! We got tickets to both! Yea! 10:45 a.m. for Combarelles and 2:10 p.m. for Font du Gaume. So, having a little time to kill, we drove into Les-Ezyies for a brief look around and to pick up some much-needed water. There’s not much to Les-Ezyies; even less when you visit in November, which was when we first stayed there. But at least this time most of the shops were open, which was a pleasant change! From there, it was back to the cave for our prehistory lesson! Combarelles has no paintings per se; rather, everything there is engraving on the walls – lots of horses, but we saw some human representations, as well as an amazing bear, reindeer and what looked to me like a mountain lion; definitely some kind of cat! These engravings were from the Magdalenian period; about 14,000 years ago; truly astounding! We were WAY deep into the cave, and there were just 6 of us and the guide, who did his best to answer questions in English. On the way out, Chris led, and we were walking mainly without lights – and there were bats everywhere! Obviously they were there first, so it was only fair! We then headed back to Les-Ezyies for lunch. Went to the Chateaubriant restaurant, where we had eaten that cold, cold Thanksgiving time, and R had lots of soup – and went on to develop his own vegetable soup recipe. Again we both had soup (I like R’s better, actually!) and I had salad with roquefort cheese, walnuts (from the region) and tomatoes; R had sole (the whole thing, which he then got to bone on his plate...); Chris and Brenda had the entree du jour – a small ramekin with potatoes, creme fraiche, lardon and cheese (was great, as I tried some of Brenda’s!) followed by a cheese omelet for Chris and my salad for Brenda; very, very good! Walked down to the Vezere river which runs through Les-Ezyies; lovely day, sunny and warm; beautiful flowers; lots of iris.
We arrived back at La Font du Gaume for our next tour. This was much larger; think there were 15 of us in all, including guides, and a VERY steep schlep up the side of the mountain to get to the cave entrance (much prefer Les Combarelles, which you enter from ground level)! Saw some amazing cave paintings – mostly bison, but there were also some reindeer (one of which R insists was an oryx) in black and red; truly incredible! It is so difficult to imagine how our very ancient ancestors managed to put motion and perspective into their drawings – and to wonder how (and why!) they got so far into these caves to paint! (Can you see moms saying: No dear, you may NOT paint on the cave walls at home, you’ll have to find another cave to paint in!...) And with those philosophical wonderings, we headed back to Sarlat. R and I decided to nap, while Brenda and Chris did the shops. Brenda bought some wonderful prints of places we have seen!
Dinner was at a restaurant R and I had visited during our last visit; very good! Brenda had calzone, and Chris had the “spicy” pizza. R and I had salads of tomatoes with balsamic vinegar followed by bouef bourguignonne for R and I had spaghetti bolonaise; all great! Glace of various flavors (mostly chocolate) for dessert. However! By mid-dinner, the rain started coming down – (it was, I thought, fairly clear when we’d left the hotel, and the service was MUCH quicker!) in torrents!! Just amazing; especially because it was raining directly on the table next to us! Obviously a roof in need of repair! We waited as long as we could, but it kept raining – so, a fairly quick and damp run home! Brrrrr.....but fun! This is the first real weather we’ve seen this trip!
Up at 6 this morning to get Brenda and Chris to the train station to catch the 7:29 a.m. train (which was scheduled to leave 2 minutes ago). And the train station was locked and dark! Quelle surprise! After going over the time tables several times, it occurred to me that today is May 1 – could this be a holiday in France? R agreed that it probably was, which meant the train station didn’t open until 6:55 (we were early, as usual)...and sure enough, just about 6:55 up ambles someone, and the lights go on! HOPE THAT THE SUPERMARKETS ARE OPEN TODAY AS WE WANT TO DO SOME COOKING!!! Enough of these restaurant meals!!!
So, now back in the flat. Besides grocery shopping, we are also thinking of another cave in the area, Rouffillac, as well as La Roque and Beynac – although want to do that when it’s at least a bit dryer. (Dry for now, but forecast is for rain today.) So, needing to hop into the tub!
Ta for now, and love to all!
m
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