Never have the words…

“it’s ALL Greek to me!” been more appropriate! Which means, unbelievably, we’re in CRETE!

We were sound asleep last night by just after 6 p.m. and slept through until almost 3:30 a.m. As check-in for our Easy Jet flight opened at 4:55 a.m. I had set the alarm for 4 a.m. However, we got up at 3:30 and were out the door by 4:15 a.m. – and it wasn’t raining anymore!! YEAH! To be honest, our hotel was so close to Gatwick that we could really have walked there! Turned the car in to Europcar and headed into the terminal…to find that there are both a North and South terminal at Gatwick, and naturally, we were in the wrong one! So, found the very convenient shuttle bus that connected the two, and were at Easy Jet check in by 4:45 a.m. Absolutely no line whatsoever!! Checked the bags in and headed through security. Again, because we were so early, no lines anywhere, AND you don’t have to take your shoes off at Gatwick, which made Robert’s life considerably easier! (He has always been a “shoe horn” kind of guy, but he still has some difficulty in crossing his right leg over his left, and having brand-new shoes, it was more than a bit awkward taking them off and putting them back on…) Headed to Garfunkles for breakfast. R had two croissants with coffee and O.J. and I had some well scrambled eggs with bacon, toast and juice.

For some reason, we were “Speedy Boarders” with Easy Jet, which meant we got to be among the first to board (!) Headed from the gate area onto a bus and were transported to our plane; row 3, aisle and window seats. The flight was 3 hours and 40 minutes; very pleasant, no problems – and suddenly, we were in Iraklieo airport in Crete! (The reason I say that so specifically is that with the erupting volcano in Iceland, it has only been a week since normal air traffic has resumed in Europe. Our friends Bob and Stew were unable even to get to Greece for their holiday which was to have begun right when the skies were closed, and I was thinking the same might happen to us!) The surrounding countryside that I could see from the airport was not lush and green like I’d been expecting. Rather, it was more like landing at Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii; very sparse vegetation. Mountains to be seen, however, from Iraklieo. This island is NOT flat!

Passports stamped, we headed for luggage claim, and ours were some of the first pieces down!!! Headed out of arrivals and picked up our Budget rental car. Very cute SMALL and RED vehicle; (forget what – will tell you later!) The instructions to Lato Boutique Hotel were fairly simple, except for one thing! We were told to turn right at the third traffic light – but most of the lights we’ve seen so far aren’t working! So is a non-working set of lights to be counted, we asked ourselves. As it turns out, the Iraklion airport is probably less than 15 minutes from town. We headed to the port, once around the splashing fountain, and there was the hotel! NO place to park, but someone came out of the hotel to take the luggage and then the car. (Have since located it…parked cheek by jowl down the street…will be impossible for me to get it out without help, I’m sure!) Checked in, junior suite 226.

WOW! The suite is WONDERFUL! Lovely living room, facing the old port, with French doors out onto the private balcony, as well as another window. Bedroom also huge and love, and we can see the Venetian fortifications from bed! Two TV’s with VERY good selection (although mostly in Greek….) but as long as they have Eurosport, I’m fine! Robert set up the computer (free wi-fi!) and logged in while I unpacked and put things away. We’re here for three nights.

Changed into shorts (sorry, everyone, but yes, we did!) and out for an exploratory walk. The first thing we found is that we’re going to have to come back! The world famous Iraklieo Archeological Museum is STILL closed (since 2006) for renovation! Is “supposed” to open sometime in 2010…just not yet! Some of the more famous pieces from the museum have been moved to a temporary exhibition space, which we plan on seeing Wednesday. (Tomorrow: Knossos, Minoan Palace!)

From there we walked down some pedestrian-only streets and saw some lovely town squares. Lots of people out for the afternoon, but not hoards of tourists, which is nice! Sat for a bit in the square refreshing ourselves with Coke. We’re working on learning a few Greek words – thank you, you’re welcome, yes, no – but VERY difficult! Looking at the signage, some of which is totally in Greek – in characters I don’t know! – I feel like someone who hasn’t yet learned to read or write! Absolutely NO connections whatsoever to what I know! Hopefully at least some of it will sink in fairly quickly, as people really, truly nice and helpful, but much prefer to know a couple words!

Most of the island of Crete was controlled by the Venetians in the 1200’s, and some of the architecture is still here. The Venetian Loggia (now town hall) is quite lovely, as is the beautiful Morisini fountain. From there we headed down hill to the old port area (stopping along the way for Magnum Classic #2!) Passed the Venetian fortress, which we see from our room, then back to the hotel past what is left of the Venetian Arsenale (boat building works) .

Arranged for a half-bottle of wine to follow us to our room, (which also arrived with peanuts) which was nice as we’d had no lunch. Sat on the balcony and enjoyed, then headed in for naps. Up now – only slept for an hour or so! – and will be getting ready shortly for dinner. The menu for the restaurant hotel sounds very good, so may decide to stay here. Back into jeans and out we’ll go!

More later!
Much love,
M
X

(Robert the Editor’s comment: I need to explain about the spelling of the town…it is seen two ways, Iraklieo, as I’ve used, or Heraklion, which is also frequently used.)

Dinner update. Well, we actually didn’t make it out of the hotel! Turns out the restaurant here, Brillant, is absolutely SUPERB! Lovely room (I want the lighting over the bar) with a GREAT red wall; fabulous dinner service and glassware. I ordered an incredible smoked eggplant millefleurs on tomato, with Greek cheese garnished with pesto and balsamic vinegar. It was AMAZING. R had the veloute of mushroom soup. Also incredible; included a slightly sour note, which must either be Greek yoghurt or cheese. For mains, we both had chicken. Mine was fillet of chicken breast rolled and stuffed with spinach and Greek cheese. R’s was grilled and served on a green salad with tomatoes that had been lightly sauted in olive oil. Both fabulous! Had a bottle of dry Cretan wine with it…no need for dessert!
YUM! In spite of prior fears, at least I know one place where the food is fabulous!! Decided after that to forgo the evening walk and head up to bed…10:11 p.m. and have to be up early to get out to Knossos!
m