An overcast but full day!

Hello from Istanbul!

An exhausted Robert is sound asleep, so rather than going to the Spice Market, I’m blogging…until such time as I can wake him up and get him moving again!

Up this morning around 6 to a very overcast day; breakfast at 7 and then out about 8:30 with jackets and umbrellas and up to Topkapi Palace – with literally HOARDS of other people! (This is the #1 sight in Turkey.) Fortunately, though, the lines moved fairly quickly and we were able to get our entry tickets and then in line for the security check and entrance. There were already several tour and school groups, but fortunately, they seem to move quickly, like locusts, which is helpful!

Okay…first things first. There were three rooms of the Treasury open, and unfortunately, no pictures are allowed! We saw the famous Topkapi dagger, star of the 1960’s movie “Topkapi” – the story of jewel thieves trying to steal it! Can understand why!! Truthfully, we’ve never seen so many precious stones in one place before – and that includes the Tucson Gem Show! When we were in Spain, and we’d go into churches, there was so much gold it took your breath away. Here, it is definitely precious stones – mostly emeralds, but also rubies and diamonds. There were multiple uses for emeralds that literally were the size of hen’s eggs or larger! They were carved, polished, hollowed out even (although usually not polished with facets; more cabochons) – and used as parts of lamps and lamp hangers, even boxes! We have never seen anything like this – in fact there was even a small box, about the size of a shoebox, that was FILLED with polished emeralds and other precious stones! Incredible!!

From there we wandered through the other three courtyards – including the harem, the quarters of the sultan, the diplomatic rooms and baths. It is truly a beautiful place, and restoration continues – they have a lot of work to do but are doing a nice job of it. Turkey is famous for their ceramic tiles – and the palace was filled with them, from all different periods of time and from all over Turkey. According to one of the tenants of Islam, images of people are not used at all. This means that all the tiles are either in some sort of geometric designs or of nature, like flowers, or of very elaborate script detailing items from the Koran. At any rate, it’s really beautiful! And exhausting! The palace actually goes up and down on various levels, and winds all around – and there are not nearly enough seats where you can sit and catch your breath for a few minutes!

Once we had seen everything, we headed out a different gate from which we entered, heading now toward the Haghia Sophia which is now a museum. Stopped first to see several mausoleums of past Emperors; very impressive. At that point, to be honest, we decided that we weren’t up for another museum, and decided instead to visit the Blue Mosque. As it was close to a prayer time (Muslims are called to prayer five times each day; this was one of those times.) we had to be quick to take off shoes (they provide plastic bags to carry them in) and get inside. Once inside, we decided to stay for the prayer. It was an interesting process. The mosque is divided between the area reserved for men at prayer, another area for women at prayer, and then an area for tourists, where we stayed. I got to use my new pashmina as all women are required to have their heads covered, but they also come around with head covers in case someone doesn’t have one. We really had no idea what was going on, but it was interesting to watch and listen. Also a good time to rest!

It was now officially way past lunch time, so we headed back to the hotel to drop off umbrellas and jackets. Found an excellent place for lunch down the block from the hotel. We both had kebabs – which are called kabaps here! R’s was ground beef with spices – nice and HOT – and mine, of course, was chicken! Meals came with good seasoned rice as well as the usual sliced onions with sumac. Both excellent – now will we even want dinner?? Of course now that our umbrellas are back at the hotel, it decides to rain! So, sprinted back to the hotel between drops and decided to take a rest.

Up around 5 and off to the Spice Market. Wow, what a place! Many lovely displays – as expected, lots and lots of spices – and lots and lots of Turkish delight! Got some apple tea for my sister-in-law – hope it’s the right kind! Decided at this point to take the tram all the way to the end and back. Quite a ride! We passed the Grand Bazaar, the University, many mosques, a great section of HUGE city walls, and ended up in the suburbs. Really an interesting journey! I’d say that probably half of the women here wear headscarves on a regular basis; it seems to be entirely a personal choice. Of that, maybe a quarter of them wear the long dresses covering them up. Now, as it’s rather brisk out, they’ll wear long raincoats all buttoned up, and yesterday we saw a woman who was not only covered up, but was wearing wool gloves as well! Oh my…decided that what I really needed at that point was a MAGNUM Classic! (Yes, Hil and Katy – here they’re back to their usual self!) Munched all the way back to the hotel!

Take care!
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